Yeah, maybe, but
some of us live on one.
It has always amazed
me how the Philippines is able to function as one nation given that it is
situated on 7,107 separate and distinct pieces of land. I mean, just try
counting to 7,107 and you will understand the problem.
How do you get
schools there? Electricity? Ballot boxes? Gasoline?
How do you get your
body there? Especially if you are prone to being seasick.
Oh, I know, not all
of them are populated. Still, logistics here is the mother of all nightmares.
But by Gods good will, it works.
My own island is
hidden. Many Filipinos have no idea it exists, much less where it is. But
somehow the Dutch have found it. And a scattering of Americans.
Getting here is an
excursion on its own. You fly via Manila to Tacloban, the place where General
MacArthur touristed near the end of World War II. Then you drive across the
northern rice plains of Leyte and through a range of mountains thoroughly
potted with coconut trees. This road was dirt until about 15 years ago. It is
still narrow and prone to head on collisions as fast vehicles grow impatient
with large cargo trucks and try to squeeze past, plowing into assorted vehicles
coming the other way around the sharp bends.
On the way, you
drive past the coastal fishing village where my wife grew up during her
elementary schooling days. She'd walk a couple of kilometers to school each
day, and on weekends, 15 k or more selling bananas to neighboring towns with
her grandmama. She today does not have kind words for the heavy bananas, though
her pinarito saging is awesome, carmeled with sugar and thin'sliced like I like
them. She has fond memories of her grandmother, and visits her grave regularly
to light a candle and bless her for her kindness.
You emerge from the
mountains onto a gorgeous and windy bridge, across a rock causeway, and onto my
island: Biliran.
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Biliran reminds me
of Hawaii before it became a state and was overrun by rich white retirees from
the mainland. Gorgeous green mountains rising into the mist, clean air, a
circular main highway that is paved about 3/4 of the way around. A large
portion of that was finished just last year. The rest of the way around is dirt
with potholes big enough to swallow my Honda Civic.
There is a fork in
the road just off the causeway. If you turn right, you go east, then north. The
southern and eastern coast is developing as beach communities, more for
pleasure than anything, because the mountains come right down to the coast.
There isn't a lot of space for farming. Nice homes are going in there. Retired
Filipinos I suspect.
Juices, if Americans
only knew the beauty they could find there. And affordable. Blue Pacific
waters, islands in the distance. Clean air. Mountains behind, loaded with
green. Retirement never had it so beautiful.
Or if the
Philippines actually thought of WELCOMING such moneyed normal people as
American retirees . . . and let them buy land.
Rather the
Philippines welcomes hit and run sex tourists and wayward eccentrics like Joe
Am. And government officials in Immigration, Foreign Affairs and Customs snarl at these particular "guests"
rather than make them feel welcome. As if being polite were an unfair burden to
impose on such busy and self-important officials of the land.
"We don't need
your stinkin' money or corruptive attitudes about good values!" they
probably mutter under their garlic and ginger laden breath.
If you turn left off
the causeway, you go northwest and eventually reach the main city of Naval, a
comparatively clean, bustling gateway to the ocean and the rest of the island.
All roads on Biliran lead to Naval. That
is because there are only three of them. Around the island this way, around the
island that way, and up and over the mountains through a rocky, eroded dirt
road pass.
Half the population
of Naval pedals bicycles for a living. The other half works as shop keepers.
Another half labors in the rice fields or doing construction. And the rest of
us laze about.
I don't know how the
Dutch found the place, but there is a community of them in the outlying
suburbs. Each has a nice home and a Filipina wife and is old and opinionated. I
fit right in, but I am not so pushy. Filipinos can't figure me out. I'm
expected to be an arrogant idiot but instead I am deferential and kind. Boy
howdy, THAT throws them off.
Naval has a
university that trains up a lot of seamen. It has a dock which receives the
Super Ferry and all kinds of freighters and local commuter craft. The entire
downtown is only barely above sea level, so I don't know what will happen as
the ocean rises during the next 50 years. Maybe they will build higher sea
walls and people will live in a giant concrete bathtub. Already during major
storms the ocean dumps truckloads of sand onto the main square.
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The city is
progressive compared to what I've seen elsewhere. It has daily trash removal.
An anti-dog ordinance (which is enforced haphazardly). Good water piping. Four
gas stations, one of which has unleaded gasoline most of the time. No rebels
creeping about extorting money in the name of political rectitude. Oh, sure,
building standards are a tad lax, the reality of poverty and most people
struggling financially, but most shops are in reasonably good condition. Most
of the goods come in by boat. Prices are a little higher than what you would
find in Tacloban, but you can get or order just about anything you need. We
have no Jollibee or Chow King. Soon, I'm sure. Because this place is vibrant
and growing.
It is 2 1/2 hours to
Tacloban for a modern Robinson's Mall experience (National Bookstore, Greenwich
et al, computer stores) and a good B-grade hospital. Ormoc is 2 hours away. I
always get grim driving there past the river, thinking it was not too long ago
in 1991 that 8,500 Filipinos were killed when a flash flood ripped through the
city. It's fine now. You have to dodge sugar cane trucks to get there, so it is
diesel alley the last 15 kilometers.
The road to Tacloban
is a speed highway. The best of aggressive Filipino driving can be witnessed
thereupon.
Biliran is sheltered
from typhoons by the larger islands that make up the Visayas. The weather is
surprisingly cool outside the concrete jungle of downtown, where mid-day heat
is trapped in the cement of the streets and buildings. I suppose because the island
is small. Cool ocean air is everywhere. And the mountains act like the freezer
in the refrigerator, drawing down a nice nip if the winds are from the east.
To be honest, I
think this island was probably the original Garden of Eden. It is still
paradise in my book, my book not really being the Bible. I seek spiritual
guidance from Jonathan Swift and John Grisham.
But I digress.
Stop by if your boat
is in this area. Mi isla est su isla. Wakarimashta? Comprende, amigo? Kasabot
ka?
You dig?